ERIK SANZENBACH / L’Observateur / July 11, 2000

Sharpen those kitchen knives! “An essential tool for good cooking is a sharp knife,” declares Allen Aubert of LaPlace. And he should know. As much as he has cooked, Allen believeshe has chopped even more.

“He still does it for me,” wife, Brenda, says. “When we make gumbo, Allendoes all the chopping.” “Preparation is all the work in cooking,” states Allen, to which Brenda adds, “and cleaning up after.”The Boy Scouts, Riley Hymel and Dale Madere are what got Allen started in cooking. His sons, Jeff, Allen Jr. and Paul, were scouts, and Allen believesthat he, Brent Duhe and Dale, known as “The Three Amigos,” went to every Boy Scout camp to cook. He and Brenda also have a daughter, Kathy.Allen started cooking for the Andouille Festival when the late Riley was in charge and also helped when Dale took over. With Dale and Riley hecooked at the Destrehan Plantation as well then started putting things together himself and found that cooking was easy. When Brenda’s cousin,Ralph Miller, was in office, Allen cooked for his political events.

Every year Allen cooks with Dale for the Knights of Columbus and also has cooked with the late Lionel St. Martin. People like Allen, Dale and Brentfeel they have to carry on the cooking traditions in the parish once epitomized by Riley.

“Riley always said everything had to be done right,” says Allen.

The tradition could well continue as Toby Jacob, Ricky’s son, was taught to chop at an early age and has become quite good at it. When Riley cookedfor the Quarterback Club, though, Allen says his favorite was always roast, sweet peas and mashed potatoes.

There are five camps down the Reserve Canal that Allen talks about which are really busy every weekend during deer season. Every camp has a bunchof cooks, he proudly proclaims, and there is plenty of good cooking going on.

Even though Allen cooks at home sometimes, Brenda does most of it. Hedoes, though, do a great job on the barbecue pit with a pork roast to which Brenda says, “That is the best thing.”Says Allen, “It’s the simplest thing you can do; you get all the fat off of it.” The roast is stuffed with garlic, equal amounts of red and blackpepper, salt, sage and garlic powder. Put it on there thick, let it set for ahour in the fridge; then put it on the grill about 12 inches from the flame.

Use pecan shells for smoking.

Whenever Brenda cooks chicken stew, though, Allen has to have candied yams, too. That’s because as a state trooper he would visit the LaPlacedeputies and witnessed an inmate’s wife bringing him the greatest meal of stew with butter beans and mushrooms, fried chicken, yams, macaroni and cheese on visiting Sunday. That savory memory never left Allen.Once a state trooper for20 years, plus 15 years with the Levee Board Police, the retired LaPlace resident does plenty of exercising and visiting of grandkids. He has also been helping Kathy remodel her house. Cooking mostly for outside organizations and as in the past 20 years helping Dale, Allen also cooks for the district attorney’s Christmas party and for all the judges once a year.

Before he gets started, though, those knives have to be sharpened. It’s hissecret to good cooking.

Following is an unusual recipe.

ALLIGATOR SAUCE PIQUANTE 5 lbs. seasoned alligator (2- 3-inch pieces)1 cup flour 1 cup oil 2 large onions 3 stalks celery 1 large bell pepper 1 bunch shallots 1/4 cup fresh parsley 1 small garlic 3 bay leaves 1/2 lb. mushrooms1 can Rotel tomatoes Small jar olives 1 small can tomato sauce 1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce1 tbsp. TabascoSalt & pepper

Make a roux with oil and flour. Cook until dark brown. Add chopped onions,celery, bell pepper, garlic and whites of shallots. Cook down until onionsand celery get clear. Add meat and smother for 1/2 hour.After this, add Rotel and tomato sauce. Add Worcestershire and Tabasco. Drain olives/add to mixture. Add four cups water. Raise heat to high andlet come to a boil and cook for a 1/2 hour to 45 minutes.

Stir often to avoid sticking. When meat is tender, remove cover. Addmushrooms, bay leaves, greens of shallots and parsley.

Lower fire and simmer until thick.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve over steaming rice.

Note: Cans of mushrooms or Cream of Celery soup may also be added but are not necessary. Alligator will shrink as it cooks, so don’t cut anysmaller than 2 to 3 inches.

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