ANNA MONICA / L’Observateur / January 14, 2000

Even though she is, or perhaps because she is 85 years old, when it comes to cooking Thelma Robinet of Reserve comes closest to what we can call a “purist.” She cooks the way she does because she learned what sheconsiders the right way, at an early age, but also the way she believes food tastes best.

For instance, don’t ask Mrs. Robinet to come over and help carve yourturkey if you have cooked it on its back.Like so many others, she wouldstay in the kitchen with her mother, the late Mary Booker. She cannotremember when she did not know how to cook, and she learned to bake from her father, Evans.

Mrs. Robinet believes people didn’t do much fancy cooking when she firstlearned. It was mostly stews, okra gumbos, chicken and andouille gumbos,and although she is a whiz at making meatballs and spaghetti she believes most people have switched to making a meat sauce instead. When her son,McLouis, and family came down from Illinois, the grandchildren were surprised and delighted with the meatballs. Son LaNard of LaPlace shareshis mother’s interest in cooking.

Tale after tale of yesteryear easily flows from Mrs. Robinet’s memories,especially those of Boucherie Day. That was the day her dad would get ahog out for slaughter and the six siblings, three girls and three boys, were allowed to stay home from school and join in the excitement.

Mrs. Robinet explains how all parts of the hog were used. After her dad cutup the meat, certain parts were used for hogshead cheese and some for blood sausage. She remembers well and can explain how the blood sausagewas made with parsley and shallots and highly seasoned. Some peoplewould add rice. There was boudin rouge and boudin blanc.With fondness she recalls the making of cracklin and talks about how the children would fry sweet potatoes in the cracklin pot. Then they wouldpass the sweet potatoes in sugar and had a great treat! Also, we are told, there was “pure” lard which could be kept for a long time and be used to make the better things like bread, and the “other” lard which wasn’t as good but got used first in order to save the better lard.

Naturally, Thelma Robinet married a man who “couldn’t boil water.” Infact, she says the late Theophile, to whom she was married 65 years, actually burned seven of her pots. He surely enjoyed her cooking, though,and was very easy to please. He also made a huge contribution to hiswife’s cooking talents by producing a large garden year after year, so his wife always had fresh vegetables to cook.

When friends would come from New Orleans to visit they looked forward to the fresh corn, green beans and potatoes they got to eat from the garden. One year the Robinets had so much mirliton they couldn’t give themaway.

“We know more what to do with them now,” Mrs. Robinet says. She alsotries different recipes now but is especially fond of making the small pecan tassies, which she sells, and bread.

She talks about the Good Friday tradition she grew up with when they had to cook seven greens together and called it gumbo fave. Gumbo is afavorite dish she likes to cook, and today bakes a turkey every year for the Altar Society Christmas party.

And, she is particular about that turkey and firmly believes not everyone can cook one. As she explains the art of carving a turkey in detail, Mrs.Robinet is recalling what she learned from her father.

Mrs. Robinet is also a legend and was very special to the students at OurLady of Grace School, where she managed the cafeteria for 40 years before retiring. Although realizing you cannot always please everybody, shesometimes would sit with a student who wouldn’t eat. With her coaxingthe student would eventually taste, and then eat. That was important toher. And, cooking the right way is important to her. Following are several of her recipes:

Baked Turkey Clean turkey, removing lungs. Wash well inside. Do not remove whateverfat is on turkey. Season well with salt, red pepper and little black pepperand paprika. Rub all over turkey. Put inside turkey one large onion cut infours and three celery stalks cut in half. Close turkey with end down. Putin pan with breast down. Cook on 300 degrees. If it’s a real large, cook iton 275 degrees for five hours.

Fried Chicken Parts Clean chicken parts. Do not remove any skin or fat. Season to your taste.Do not dry chicken – leave very wet. Sprinkle with flour. Add enough waterto make a batter, not too thick and not too thin. Stir until well coated.Deep fry on high heat.

Dinner Rolls 2 cups flour 2 tbsp. sugar2 tsp. salt1/3 cup butter or margarine 3/4 cup milk 1 tbsp. yeast

Mix main three ingredients in bowl. Melt butter. Heat milk to very warm,not hot. Make a hole in center of flour. Add yeast, then put in milk. Start tostir, then add butter. Mix until smooth, then turn out on floured table. Kneed very well, then put in large bowl which has been buttered. Coverwith towel and let rise until three times its size. Put in pan to bake orpinch for rolls. Bake 12-15 minutes or until brown in 350 degree oven.

Chocolate Crumb Cookies 2/3 cup shortening 2 eggs 2/3 cup margarine 2 tsp. vanilla1 cup granulated sugar 3 cups all purpose flour 1 cup brown sugar, packed 1 tsp. soda1 tsp. salt (level)1 cup chopped pecans 1 cup chocolate graham cracker crumbs

Mix thoroughly shortening, margarine, sugars, eggs and vanilla. Stir inremaining ingredients. Drop dough by rounded teaspoonfuls 2 inches apartonto ungreased cookie sheet. Bake 8 to 10 minutes or until light brown.Cool slightly before removing from sheet.

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